The usefulness of this model, depends on your larp system and rules. The design is for a "sufficient force" larp combat system. For a bare minimum type combat system you can get even more creative. For a full force system, it will do as well, though its not perfect - the blade might get damaged and a bad swing could get someone's head ringing(or cause a nose bleed) if both participants are not having proper protection.
What you need!
BUDGET - about 10-15$ probably less. Rest will be cheaper because some things like the duct-tape can be used another dozen times.
Pipe insulation foam. Thats fairly simple to find.
Polypropylene pipe for cold/hot water. Id say around 20-25mm diameter or 1 inch, depends on how thick and tough you want your sword to be. PVC pipes are not a good idea. They, like bamboo might shatter(bamboo WILL shatter eventually) leaving your project ruined, and you swinging something with jagged edges around. Polypropylene pipes are much thicker and they tend to bend slightly, which makes them far more resilient. For 3 years I've seen only 1 polypropylene boffer sword snap and that was because it got tangled in the armour of two heavy weights while they were bashing each other.
The rest is duct-tape, and tools - scissors, knife and so on.
First things first - you get a pipe for your boffer sword that is the desired length. Let's face it, you probably won't get it right from the first time. Why? Because you will need to try several times to find what size of a weapon suits you best. I find myself making annoying misses with someone else's weapon that's just a few inches shorter than my own, simply because mine is...well mine - it fits in my hand perfectly.
Keep in mind - the pipe will be 1-2 inches shorter than the completed boffer - the pommel and tip will add more to it.
Once you got it straightened out, Start marking strips and get ready to cut them out.
Don't make them too wide, they should be just enough to cover your pipe - so depending on pipe diameter - about 20-25mm wide.
Mark it to the bottom with the marker - You don't want to make mistakes which will leave the blade uneven. It won't stay well on the pipe and you might hit someone with the flat which will hurt.
After that - its time to cut out the strips for our new larp sword!
Once you get the strips, its time to attach em to the pipe. Use tape to keep them in place and make sure they are all perfectly lined up. Same reason as with the cutting!
The point where both sides of the larp sword are done is where the 95% stop, wrap it in duct tape and look at it proudly. Its all well and good, but I say we take this a little further.
Grab the scissors and shape that blade a bit more.After all we are making a singe edged sabre.
Now it looks a little better, but still when people see they'd say Meh another boffer. So we take this further.
So we give our new larp sword a real edge. Use a marker to point out what needs to be cut, then grab a paper knife and slowly shape it into an actual blade.
And voila - now thats something you can use with pride.
This
Or these
Or this one, which shows at least some effort, but its still a long way.
28 коментара:
Rather than using pipe insulation foam (and having to cut it into strips), you could use foa camp-mat, and built it as a 3-layer sandwich around the core.
(And latex makes a much prettier coating than duct tape)
Pipe foam is cheaper and more easy to get, at least in my experience. Otherwise, the result would be the same.
I'd imagine that if you wanted a longer weapon, you would need ticker piping? also, am I right in assuming that the thicker the padding, the fast the blade degrades?
True - a longer two handed weapon would require a thicker pipe to avoid getting a spaghetti sword. How fast the blade degrades has more to do with how you use it and how well its made. Thickness would be a lesser factor.
This is beautiful
Its remarkably simple too. It just takes some extra work. As you can see, I got better stuff made already.
oh yeah definitely. I'm a fan of the use of recycled bottles in your hilts aswell, havent seen that before.
Well, try it out. It works as a charm, with only 1-2 layers its purely decorative, with more it can stop a sword from sliding down.
This is really lovely work. I wish this style were legal at my larp but we have to have 5/8" foam walls all the way round the core. I still will try and apply some of these tips to reshape the blade a bit. :)
Well, if your local rules favour dickswords, as the russians say - "Nichevo" Can't be helped. But then again. Maybe you should ask around and if there are enough people sick of dickswords, its time to make a new larp. :)
Indeed, I just play with my friends and I always say "If you can't take a hard hit, don't play."
We're men, WE'RE TOUGH!
I am new to larp, and I was looking to make a 45cm (1.5') long dagger. How thick would the core have to be?
45 sm full length, or blade only? If thats the full length - a thin F20 is more than enough. If thats the blade only, you might consider the stronger F25, since we are now threading into short sword terittory.
45cm full length. How thick would the pipe have to be on a 75cm (2.5') sword? (that is full length including handle) Is this kind of pipe available at hardware stores, or is it special?
Every hardware store, Tools R Us, Handyman, etc should have em. These are polypropilene pipes for hot and cold water. Ahem. now on your new question. Depends on the type of sword, or rather how strong and solid you want it to be. An F20 is ok again - for say, a short saber. On other hand if you want a solid weapon you can use a F25 as in the boffer gladius guide I did. It will be a bit heavier and more rigit ofc. Up to your own preference.
Once you get something up and running, you might wanna head for the blog's facebook page.
http://www.facebook.com/BuskadorTheBull
Thank you very much.
Not a problem dude. If you have anything else to ask feel free to do so. Also - like I said, once you have something done, go to the blog's FB page and post some pics.
Ok, so I went to pick up supplies, and the closest I could find was "poly pipe", and it came in a roll. Also, does f20 refer to the diameter? If it does what is it in inches?
Hm well I suppose they name em and calibre them differently across the globe ^^ F20 refers to the diameter in millimetres, soo uuugh that would be 4/5ths of an inch? Just look for the light grey plastic pipes for cold and hot water. They are a bit thicker than PVC pipes and more resilient.
http://img.diytrade.com/cdimg/1318046/16851685/0/1288929209/Polypropylene_Random_Co-polymer_Pipes_pp_r_pipe.jpg
What length should I aim for on a single-handed sword? I have asked around some of my friends and got answers ranging from 75-105cm for the full length - We're fairly new to LARP so I thought it might be best to ask a more experienced hand.
They gave you a correct answer, 70-105 is roughly the size for 1 handed swords(actual size varies depending on the model). 70 is roughly the size of a roman gladius, 100 - a long arming sword. Above 100 and we are pushing it into bastard sword territory.
As for what size(and what type!) is best for you...that can only be proven via trial and error.
How long is this sword ?
Is it a 1 handed sword ?
Yes is a one handed sword, a bit under 1 meter.
Thanks for making this guide! Helped me make my first Larp sword (For the first larp I'll be participating in). I used the basics of this, but made the bastard sword instead. Turned out pretty well I think, for my first one.
Dude! This is exactly what I'm looking for! And it goes perfectly with my style as well! THAN K YOU SO MUCH!!!
Hey! The sword is absolutely wonderful!! I wonder how you did the handle? Is it possible to have a closest picture of it?
You made my day was looking for this only, also recently I bought one bastard sword...www.bastardsword.net
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